AN AUTISTIC GARDENER’S OBSESSION WITH PEPPERS

Seeds frozen – dormant.
Waiting for the warm spring rains.
Waiting for the sun.
Spring comes – the ground thaws.
The sun caresses the soil.
Tiny tendrils grow.
Clear skies – leaves appear.
Summer heat and drying wind
Thirsty roots grow deep.
Lush leaves hide treasures –
Peaking out from the shadows
Fruits turn red and orange.
Harvest time arrives.
A few fruits fall to the ground --
Freeze – wait for warm rain.

If I want peppers that pack a punch and are unique like Aji Charapita, I buy seeds and mother-hen them until they are driven to grow and produce.

I start in February and imitate nature by throwing the seeds into the fridge freezer for two days. After a couple of days, I take them out and set them on the counter to warm.

Once warmed, I brew some chamomile tea – two cups. I brew the first one for me and the second one, which is not as strong, for the seeds. Cool the seeds’ tea. Soak them for 8–24 hours.

After the seeds have soaked, it is time to plant. Because peppers were initially tropical, the varieties I grow do best with higher humidity. But, high humidity can lead to dampening-off. I have found, if I sterilize the soil (350-degree oven for 30 minutes), there is less chance of dampening-off. Once the soil has been sterilized, let it cool to room temperature before planting. You are simulating spring. So not too hot. Not too cold. But just right.

And, then using tepid water in a half gallon jug, make a weak solution of fish emulsion, a sprinkle of Mycorrhizae, and a drop of HB-101. (This is because baking potting soil will kill both the bad and the good). Water your pots with the solution. After watering, drop a seed into the pot and barely cover it. Either put the seed pots in a tray with a clear lid or put the pots in bags or baggies. Put the pots on heating pads. The lid and/or bags will keep the humidity high.

When the seeds sprout, keep them on the heating pad and add grow lights, water as needed. Periodically take off the covers to let the seedlings air out for a few hours because they are not swamp plants.

Once the pepper seedlings have true leaves, move them to 3-inch pots. Using larger pots will limit the number of times needed to transplant them before they are put in the ground or their final adult pepper pot. Fill your pot about two-thirds with potting soil (sterilize it as before). I use a dash of rooting hormone -- one designated for vegetables. With a sharp spoon, scoop out the seedling and place it in the pot and gently add dirt up to its little leaves. Roots will grow out from the buried stem (It’s a nightshade). As the pepper grows, add dirt to the pot.

Some varieties will still need the high humidity. Do as before with the covers and grow lights. When outdoor time comes, harden them off so they don’t go into shock. My peppers do best with morning sun and afternoon dappled shade. Remember – tropical – rainforest. (I use an old lace kitchen curtain for shade). Water, fertilize, and wait.

I start more peppers than I can plant, so I share with my friends and neighbors. So far, no one has complained.